Russell and Misty Roegels use their two custom-modified, all-wood smokers and a Bewley pit from Dallas to imbue minimally trimmed briskets with a crusty bark and smoky essence. Giant beef ribs and St. Louis-cut pork ribs have been rebooted with a different spice rub, and his peppery sausage layers on the heat and spice with big flecks of jalapeños.
This is a collection of related blogs by different blog-sites about Roegels Barbecue.
I’ve driven by this place many over the years, but never bothered to give it a try until reading Daniel Vaughn’s 11/14 review in TMBBQ. He gave it a 4.0 out of 5, which would make it a contender for a ‘Top 50’ in Texas rating with Texas Monthly. Have to agree with Daniel…indeed, some of the best brisket in Houston here at Roegels, formerly known as Baker’s Ribs. Have tried them 4 times over the past month—solid each time. Wonderful, crispy smoke ring on the brisket.
In the last few years the barbecue scene in Houston has made leaps and bounds in what I consider the right direction. Once relegated to the back corner of Texas barbecue a sea change has been made here. In the last five years the type of barbecue served has shifted. Brick and mortar locations had been joined by pop ups and trailers who serve up moist and flavorful brisket with a heavily seasoned bark and thin layer of fat that is retained through serving.
The poster child for the city’s current barbecue renaissance is this engaging mom-and-pop where the oak-and-pecan-smoked brisket is destination-quality stuff, with a gloriously multidimensional black-peppered bark. Links and pork ribs are yeomanlike, yet less expected meats — like Russell Roegels’ turkey and pulled pork — are memorable. Misty Roegels’ homey sides make the experience even warmer and more welcoming.
It was on a recent afternoon at Roegels Barbecue Co. over on S. Voss Rd. that the above thought occurred to me, even as I sawed through the crunchy, peppery exterior of some brisket, reaching tender, succulent meat oozing with buttery beef juices. It looked and tasted a lot like the brisket at Killen’s, CorkScrew, Jackson Street and other new Houston barbecue joints, yet another wonderful example of the dark-and-fatty style of barbecue that’s sweeping the state.